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Paint
Specifications
What
is the difference between water based (acrylic ) and oil based (enamel)?
Is acrylic better than enamel?
Do I need one or two finish coats?
Do I need a full undercoat/primer when I repaint both
interior and exterior surfaces?
Which is better spraying or brushing/rolling?
What is the advantage of spraying?
Why do I get cracks in the corners and screw-heads popping
in my plasterboard?
Why do I get cracks where my trim (baseboard, window frames,
door frames, crown, etc.) meets my walls?
Why do my eaves always peel?
How do I prep my deck?
I have some dry rot on my window sill -- can it be patched?
How do I repair and prevent the cracks that keep occurring
from the ends of wood facia boards?
How do I stop knots from bleeding through?
Is washing with water adequate for cleaning a surface
to be painted?
How do I prep my peeling window sills?
Who supplies the best paint?
How warm does it need to be to paint?
Is caulking necessary on the exterior?
When I caulk, do I need to take out all of the old stuff?
Why do I get black stuff (mildew) on my siding?
How do I stop rust coming back on my railings?
I have a painted block foundation: on the exterior I
get white salt-like stuff on the surface that destroys the paint -- what
is this and how can I prevent it?
Can I paint brick?
Can I paint aluminium cladding? aluminium gutters?
Can I paint vinyl cladding?
Can water damage to my stucco/vermiculite ceiling be
repaired so that I won't notice it?
I want to remove my stucco/vermiculite from my ceilings,
and then paint them -- how do I do this?
My deck keeps peeling year after year -- what do I need
to do to get something that lasts?
How long do I need to leave my pressure treated exterior
wood before I can stain it?
My pressure treated wood fence/deck has weathered to
a darkish grey colour --what can I do to freshen it up?
My cedar wood fence/deck has weathered to a darkish grey
colour -- what can I do to freshen it up?
When do I know that I have to repaint?
What colours are hot now?
I am getting water through my basement wall, I heard
about a paint that can be used to stop this leaking -- is there such a
thing?
I just built a new house and want to keep the dust down
in the garage -- what can I put down on the floor?
I want to seal my patio bricks -- what can I use?
Answers:
What
is the difference between acrylic and enamel?
Acrylic paints are composed of synthetic resins (usually acrylic or vinyl
acrylic) and pigments dispersed in water. Acrylic paints dry by evaporation
of the water causing the particles of resin to fuse together forming a
continuous coating. Acrylic has excellent adhesion, colour and gloss retention,
long-term flexibility, and toughness. They are also easy to apply, clean
up in water and safe to use. Most acrylic paints must be protected from
freezing and applied at a minimum temperature of 10 degrees C
Enamel or enamel-based paints are coatings produced by reacting a drying
enamel acid with an alcohol. Drying occurs by the evaporation of a solvent;
curing of the resin occurs by oxidation. The more enamel there is in the
formula, the longer it takes to dry, the better the wetting properties,
and the better the elasticity. Enamels can be used as interior or exterior
trim paints, machinery enamel, or durable wall finishes. Top quality enamel-based
paints also offer excellent adhesion, but there's a trade-off. With the
passage of time - and depending on the substrate, weather conditions and
the particular paint - enamel-based products can yellow and become brittle.
In extreme circumstances enamels can begin to crack in just a few years.
Enamel coatings should not be used directly on masonry, galvanized metal
or other alkaline surfaces to avoid saponification.
Acrylic
vs. Enamel Comparison
Durability - enamel (Excellent adhesion;
better adhesion than acrylic on heavily chalked or powdery surfaces.)
Ability to stop the bleeding through of most stains. Acrylic ( Excellent
adhesion to most substrates; better elasticity than enamel.) but allows
the bleed through of most stains.
Colour Retention - enamel (Not as
good as acrylic; more likely to chalk and fade in sunny exposure.)
Acrylic (Superior resistance to chalking and fading, especially when exposed
to bright sun.) Does not yellow like enamel.
Ease of Application - enamel (More
difficult to apply due to greater "drag," and need to keep a
wet edge.) Needs to be washed up with smelly and unhealthy solvents. Can
not be applied with out an undercoat. Usually takes 24 hrs between coats,
8 or so hrs to be touch dry and 3-5 days to be case hardened or fully
cured.
Acrylic (Goes on smoothly
and evenly, with less brush drag.) Much easier to apply and can be recoated
with out the need of an under coat. Can apply more than one coat per 24
Hrs. Only takes 24hrs to be totally case hardened or cured.
Mildew
Resistance - enamel (Vegetable enamel base can provide nutrients
for mildew growth;
most products contain a fungicide to minimize growth.)
acrylic ( Less inherent tendency to grow mildew; anti fungicide additives
discourage mildew growth, help maintain fresh appearance.)
Versatility - enamel (Can be used
on most substrates, but for new concrete, stucco and other masonry, sealer
or pre-treatment is required; should not be applied directly to galvanized
metal.) Enamels main use these days is on trims, windows etc.
acrylic (Can be used on wood, concrete, stucco, brick, galvanized metal,
vinyl siding, aluminium siding, etc. (Recommend primers as appropriate))
Odour - enamel (Noticeably more odour
than acrylic.)
acrylic ( Very little odour; non-combustible.)
Cleanup - enamel (Requires hydrocarbon
solvents.) Turps
acrylic ( Simple water cleanup.)
Drying Time - enamel (Eight to 24
hours normally)
acrylic (One to six hours, permitting quick recoating.)
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Is
acrylic better than enamel?
This really depends on the substrate ( surface to be painted ), protection
needed for that substrate and personal choice. In each circumstance it
could be either. Quality acrylic paints are very flexible, so their adhesion
continues to be excellent, even when temperature changes cause the substrate
to expand and contact. In turn, this helps acrylic paints resist cracking.
Because of the strength, flexibility, colour retention, low VOC levels
and ease of application, acrylic coatings are widely accepted as the only
choice as a coating in most circumstances and especially on large areas.
Even so, top quality enamel paints can be the better recommendation in
certain repaint situations. The first of these involves painting over
heavily chalked surfaces. Enamel-based paints tend to adhere better than
acrylic paints to substrates that have chalked excessively. Of course,
it is still important to properly prepare the surface by removing as much
chalk as possible before painting. The second instance in which a top
quality enamel-based paint is to be preferred is when repainting a surface
containing multiple (four or more) layers of enamel-based paint. In the
latter case, the "elastic" acrylic paint can sometimes accelerate
the adhesion loss of embrittled enamel paint. In this situation, you may
want to play it safe by using a quality enamel-based product as a sealer
or undercoat at least.
Of course, durability is just one characteristic that customers look for
when buying paint. Colour retention is important to many people, while
others want a product that is easy to work with. Enamel coatings do have
their place as a primer/sealer and as a hard, durable coating for various
substrates.
It is safe to say that these days the use's for enamel paints in a domestic
situation are becoming more and more limited. Enamels are really only
a constant choice for primers and undercoats, or in rubbing situation
s like double hung windows and commercial walls. An example of this would
be the walls of a public toilet.
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Do
I need one coat or two finish coats?
The Sydney Painting Professional always recommend two coats over a properly
prepared and primed substrate. By using a two coat system the applicator
and the client can be safe in the knowledge that the finished surface
will be uniform and correct in appearance. A one coat system will always
show untidy edges here and there and will not have uniform colour coverage.
A two-coat finish is required for all Sydney Painting Professionals written
warranties.
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Do
I need a full undercoat/primer when I repaint a. interior b. exterior?
Interior- When repainting an interior surface and if using a similar type
of coating i.e acrylic over acrylic, Than the answer is no. Enamel over
enamel areas are different. In this situation the areas must be correctly
prepared and undercoated always. In both instances areas that are stained
or damaged should be correctly prepared and at least spot sealed or spot
primed with the proper primer or sealer. An enamel based sealer or primer
can be over coated with either an acrylic or an enamel product. If repainting
enamel over acrylic or acrylic over enamel, a primer should be used as
a barrier coat to promote adhesion and to prepare the substrate back to
a sound and compatible surface. Normally this would be an enamel based
primer.
Outside- The same rules hold for exterior repainting. If there are areas
that must be prepared for recoating such as peeling paint or mildew stains,
and the preparation takes you down to a bare substrate, priming is necessary
to seal the substrate in preparation of painting. Enamel based primers
penetrate the substrate surface and form a tight seal prior to a acrylic
or enamel based paint topcoat. Again, if a barrier coat is necessary for
between coat adhesions, an enamel primer does a great job of sealing over
the previous coating however, current technology is making great advancements
in the availability of acrylic primers and sealers that soon will do the
same task as successfully.
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Which
is better spraying or brushing/rolling?
The type of application process is contingent upon the type of coating
being used, the area to be painted and the availability of the proper
equipment. Both acrylic and enamel based paints can be applied by either
manner.
In spraying, the proper tip size and suggested air pressure needs for
the coating per the manufacturers instructions, must be met before application
can commence. Spraying of coatings is best suited to large, open, unoccupied,
or areas where over spray is not an issue. Coatings that are sprayed normally
give a level substrate a smooth finish with the absence of brush or roller
marks. Proper training in spray safety and application techniques by qualified
personnel is strongly suggested.
Brushing and rolling is best suited to more confined and closed in areas.
With proper instruction and technique, brushing and rolling applications
provide fast complete coverage of substrates. The choice of a roller cover
or brush is dependent on the type of coating being used, the texture of
the surface, and the size of the area to be painted. Brush and roller
application can be used to get to small, intricate areas not accessible
with spray equipment. An area that is constantly in need of spray paint
application is that of vermiculite ceilings common in many of the slightly
older style units and commercial buildings.
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What
is the advantage of spraying?
Spray application is a production oriented process. Large areas can be
coated at a rapid rate of speed. Spray application of enamel coatings
leaves a smooth, shiny, continuous appearance.
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Why
do I get cracks in the corners and screw heads popping in my Plaster board?
The largest culprit in this instance is the settling and movement of a
substrate. As this occurs, less flexible areas, such as the Plaster board
tape in a corner or a screw will not shift or flex as this movement occurs.
By using a flexible acrylic caulk and paint, some of this surface destruction
can be avoided or masked. All screws and the like should always be counter
sunk below the surface and filled with a flexible filler before applying
a acrylic coating.
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Why
do I get cracks where my trim (skirting boards, window frames, door frames,
Architraves, etc.) meets my walls?
Again, settling and substrate movement cause this cracking and separation
between a wall and the attached trim. As discussed earlier, using an enamel
based paint will also show these cracks as this movement takes place and
the coating breaks. Application of a generous bead of a flexible, acrylic
caulk in the void between the wall and trim board before painting will
allow for some of this movement to be absorbed. Also, by using acrylic
coatings on this area, more flexibility will be allowed as settling and
shifting occurs.
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Why
do my eaves always peel?
There could be several reasons for the peeling of paint in an eave area.
Let's start with some of the more common issues. We will focus on the
substrate of wood since it is a very common building material for eaves.
A structural moisture problem could be an issue with regard to peeling
paint. If large amounts of moisture are trapped under a coating, eventually
the coating will fail. Acrylic paints do allow some passage of moisture
through the coating but do not protect from a structural leak problem
from say backed up gutters, internal leaks or improper flashing placement.
Another problem that may be causing this peeling is the type of product
used in construction. Fibro cement sheeting for instance often becomes
dusty or dirty prior to being coated and if not cleaned initially then
following coats of paint may peel in time. During repaints the surface
must be rid of all dust, dirt, and mildew and any loose paint must be
removed and sanded to a smooth finish. Any surface contamination will
limit the adhesion of a coating. Spot priming any bare or stained areas
with an enamel primer is required for proper adhesion.
Use a quality 100% acrylic coating designed for the exterior to coat the
entire area. A good rule of thumb before applying a coating to a substrate
is to do so on a surface that is clean, dry and dull. Follow this in all
situations and your coating projects will result in far better results.
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How
do I prep my deck?
I am going to assume that this deck is wood. If it is new pressure treated
wood or for any wood surface, it is time to coat the deck when the wood
is able to absorb water. To determine if the surface is waterproof, splash
water on the surface. If the water is absorbed and the surface becomes
noticeably darker, the surface is not waterproof and it is time to prepare
and coat the deck. If the liquid "beads" up on the surface,
allow the wood to weather longer and then check again. Once it has been
determined that the deck is ready to be coated, clean the surface with
an appropriate cleaner. If the wood has weathered and is greying, a cleaner
that is specially formulated to clean and brighten the wood should be
used. Follow the manufacturer's directions when using this type of cleaner.
Rinse the surface thoroughly and allow 2-3 days, depending on the weather,
to allow the wood to thoroughly dry before applying a protective finish.
Finish up the job with a coating specifically designed for a deck. This
coating should fit the description of a coating with UV protection, water
repellents to protect against cracking, splitting, warping and cupping,
agents that inhibit the growth of mildew on the surface while highlighting
the wood's natural grain and texture. This type of coating could be clear
or a solid colour depending on preference.
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I
have some dry rot on my window sill -- can you just patch it?
Patching this dry rot would only be a temporary solution to a much larger
underlying problem. This substrate is already weakened by the fact that
it is rotting. Adding a "patch" will only aesthetically fix
the problem. The wood will continue to rot and fall apart. The concern
is that too much moisture on this surface is causing this rot problem.
Fix the structural problem such as improper water flow, or a flat surface
where water pools, etc. and you will have greater success at protecting
this type of surface area. Properly priming a new wood surface with an
enamel primer prior to installation will help seal the surface. After
the window sill has been replaced, caulk the appropriate areas to keep
destructive moisture out and topcoat this with a strong, 100% acrylic
exterior coating.
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How
do I repair and prevent the cracks that keep occurring from the ends of
wood facia boards?
The cracking that you are experiencing on your fascia boards is caused
by moisture entering the substrate. The moisture causes the wood to expand
and contract as it enters and leaves the wood. This action stresses the
wood and the results are the unsightly cracks at the ends of the board.
To remedy this problem, remove all the loose and peeling paint on and
around the affected area. This can be accomplished with a scraper or wire
brush. Once the paint is removed sand the exposed wood to fresh wood.
Fill the cracks with caulk. Allow the caulk to dry thoroughly (follow
the label directions for dry time) prime the bare wood with an enamel
base primer such as Bristols General Purpose Enamel Primer and allow to
dry. Topcoat with two coats of Bristol Weather shield or Timber coat premium
acrylic.
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How
do I stop knots from bleeding through?
To stop knots from bleeding it is necessary to seal them with a shellac
based primer, metholated spirits based sealer or an enamel based primer.
Another option is to remove the knot and fill the hole with wood putty.
Prime the patched area after it has dried and topcoat with a good quality
acrylic or enamel based paint.
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Is
washing with water adequate for cleaning a surface to be painted?
Water alone will not remove most contaminants. To assure that you have
a properly prepared surface use a mild detergent such as sugar soap or
house hold bleach. Mix the cleaner according to label directions and apply
to the surface. In some cases, such as severe chalking, it may be necessary
to scrub the surface with a stiff brush before rinsing with water. For
less severe cases, apply the detergent with a garden type sprayer and
rinse thoroughly with a garden hose and nozzle or a 1500 PSI or less pressure
washer.
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How
do I prep my peeling window sills?
First remove all the loose and peeling paint by scraping and/or wire brushing.
Sand any exposed wood to a fresh surface and prime all bare or exposed
areas. Fill any imperfections with wood putty or an appropriate fuller.
Allow the fuller to dry according to label directions and sand smooth
before spot priming these areas with an enamel base primer. Allow to dry
and topcoat with good quality enamel or acrylic based paint.
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Who
has the best paint?
The key is to use quality paint from the manufacturers premium range,
regardless of the manufacturer. In the realm of paint, there are various
grades of quality and in order to be classified as premium paint then
these paints require a GPC or Government Paint Committee Number to correctly
identify them as being approved. Quality paint costs more, with the justification
that it also lasts longer. But what proof is there that quality paint
really is the better buy. This question is answered all the time by looking
at such things as binders, pigments and additives. Quality paints have
better binders. Quality binders cost more then binders of less quality.
The type of binder and amount used affect everything from stain and crack
resistance to adhesion. Several polymer types are used as binders for
acrylic paints. Enamel paints usually have a drying enamel or modified
enamel, called enamels, as their binders. Of the two, quality acrylic
paints with 100 percent acrylic binders are especially long lasting. They
are also more expensive. Typically speaking, quality paints have more
prime than extender pigments. Prime pigments are good hiding pigments,
while extender pigments provide bulk at low cost. The most common prime
pigment is titanium dioxide, a white pigment found in both enamel and
acrylic paints. It's is expensive and is imperative for good opacity or
film hiding ability. Quality paints also have more additives. Additives
are included in paint to provide desirable properties. They might make
the paint easier to apply, for example, or give it protective properties.
Fungicides are an example. Lower cost paints take out some of these additives
to save money. All of these benefits save time and money in the initial
painting and in recoats . Since most of the cost of repainting a home
is in labour, it makes sense to invest in a top quality acrylic paint.
It applies easier, lasts longer and, when spread out over the life of
the paint job, costs less.
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How
warm does it need to be to paint?
Most manufacturers recommend that oil and water based paints be applied
when ambient and surface temperatures are above 10 degrees C and below
35 degrees C. Solvent based paints get thicker in lower temperatures making
them harder to brush and slower drying. This can result in runs, sags,
dulling of the finished coating and wrinkling on vertical surfaces as
well as using more paint than needed. Below 10 degrees, acrylic paints
also dry more slowly, especially when high humidity is present. This hinders
coalescence, which can lead to poor film forming, lack of surface adhesion
and premature paint failure. Some acrylic paints can be applied at lower
temperatures. These specially formulated products contain coalescing agents
that help in film forming during lower temperatures. Another thing to
consider is the amount of daylight. When the days are short, there is
less daylight available to help in drying. If you are using an oil based
paint, which dries by oxidation, daylight is especially important. So,
be sure to paint early in the day so that light is present to help in
the drying process. Dew is another weather-related phenomenon to consider.
Humidity affects the drying time of all paints. This is due to the added
weight that the air takes on with the extra moisture present. The problem
this creates is that by making the air heavier it is also making it more
difficult for the accelerators in the paint to cause evaporation and subsequent
drying of the paint. Most manufacturers recommend that at least two hours
be allowed for paint to dry before sunset if cool temperatures and heavy
dew are expected. Keep in mind that cooler temperatures will extend the
time before the paint reaches serviceability or hardness. An enamelled
door requires more time before it can be closed without sticking to the
jamb. A clear coating applied to a deck will need more time before you
can walk on it. Primers require more time before top coating. Knowing
this may help you as work on your painting chores in the spring or fall.
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Is
caulking necessary on the exterior?
Yes, caulking is necessary on the exterior of your home. It will aid in
preventing moisture from entering the substrate and causing premature
paint failure. First remove any old or cracked caulking as well as loose
and peeling paint from all areas to be caulked. Caulk all the vertical
butt joints where your weather boards meet other boards and where all
beadings and the like meet other edges. Never caulk the horizontal joints
of your weather boards, this can cause moisture to be trapped behind the
boards and result in premature paint failure. Other areas requiring caulk
are around window and doorframes as well as any area where a gap is present
that will allow moisture or insects to enter. If the gap is deeper than
8mm use filler, such as a caulking rod to fill the gap before caulking.
Allow the caulk to dry according to label directions before painting.
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When
I caulk, do I need to take out all of the old stuff?
Yes, caulking over old caulk can result in premature failure of the fresh
caulk. Caulk gets the best adhesion when applied to a clean, dry substrate.
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Why
do I get black stuff (mildew) on my fibro sheeting?
If you notice that the fibro sheeting on your home is beginning to look
dirty, you may have a mildew problem. Tiny fungi growing on the surface
of the sheeting cause mildew. These fungi are always present in the air.
The most common types are black, but some are red or green. The dirty
area may be very localized. For example, it may be only under the eaves
or on one side of your house. Or, it may cover an entire wall. If left
untreated, the mildew may spread and darken, turning the affected area
almost black. Mildew grows best in warm, humid conditions. There is no
sure, long-lasting preventative for mildew since mildew spores are always
in the air. Be sure to kill and remove mildew with a commercially available
mildew remover before attempting to paint the surface. Allow the surface
to dry thoroughly after using the mildew remover and then proceed with
your painting. Be sure to use an exterior paint which contain mildew additives
and remember that the shinier the paint the harder it is for mildew spores
to attach themselves.
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How
do I stop rust coming back on my railings?
Firstly use a wire brush and / or scraper to remove all dust, dirt and
loose rust to ensure adequate adhesion. Sand or power tool clean the metal
to a clear or by eye rust free surface. Prime all bare areas within 4
hours or before flash rusting occurs. For the best results use a Metal
Primer specifically made to prevent rust, followed by one full oil based
undercoat and two full top coats of premium acrylic or enamel. The important
part is being sure to apply a full paint system. When sanding or power
tool cleaning you leave a sharp edge between the bare metal and the still
painted metal. This sharp edge must be sanded smooth to prevent lifting
of subsequent paint layers at a later date. By applying two topcoats over
a primer and an undercoat you will create a longer lasting finish before
repainting will be necessary.
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I
have a painted block foundation: on the exterior I get white salt-like
stuff on the surface that destroys the paint -- what is this and how can
I prevent it?
Efflorescence is often seen as a white fluffy deposit of salt crystals
on cementitious wall surfaces. It depends on the presence of salt and
moisture. The growth of crystals will continue as long as both are present.
The salts are present in the mortar, blocks or concrete structure and
the moisture source could be from a variety of locations. When emanating
from mortar in brick or block substrates, efflorescence will start as
narrow bands corresponding to mortar joints. Some of the causes of efflorescence
include failure to adequately prepare the surface by removing all previous
efflorescence, excess moisture escaping through the exterior masonry walls
from the inside or insufficient curing time for new cement or mortar.
If excess moisture is the cause, eliminate the source by repairing the
roof, cleaning out gutters and downspouts, and sealing any cracks in the
masonry with a high quality, water-based all acrylic or siliconized acrylic
caulk. If moist air is originating inside the building, consider installing
vents or exhaust fans, especially in kitchens, bathrooms laundry areas,
and a dehumidifier in a basement.. Remove the efflorescence and all other
loose material with a wire brush, power brush or power washer; then thoroughly
rinse the surface. Painting should be delayed if efflorescence continues.
Apply one full quality acrylic sealer and at least two full coats of 100%
premium acrylic.
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Can
I paint brick?
There are many different types of masonry materials used. Some can be
very porous others may be slick and non-porous. Some can tend to be powdery
or granular others solid. Because of these factors it is difficult to
estimate the service life of a paint system over brick. If the surface
is sound and porous the paint should acquire good adhesion and be capable
of lasting as long as the actual label warranty of the product states,
provided there is no other factors acting on the paint film (such as extreme
moisture, etc.). The brick surface should be washed to remove any contamination.
The first coat to be applied should be eased out slightly ( water added
) to allow for the increased absorption that will be present during the
application of the first coat. Naturally following all label directions
and painting in good environmental conditions will maximize the success
of your painting project. Prior to painting the mortar should be checked
and repaired, if possible. brick should be allowed to weather some what
prior to painting.
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Can
I paint aluminium cladding? aluminium gutters?
Painting your old aluminium cladding and gutters makes good sense both
economically and aesthetically. Not only can you make it look like new;
you can change the colour and give it a whole new look. Surface preparation
and the use of a top quality acrylic paints like Bristol Weather tough
are the keys to painting aluminium cladding and gutters. First, any surface
oxidation must be completely removed by careful, light rubbing with steel
wool. If mildew is present, remove it by scrubbing with a bleach solution
(one part bleach to three parts water). Power wash or hand scrub with
warm soapy water and rinse. Be sure to remove all chalking, loose paint,
dust, dirt, and bleach solution. Spot prime areas where bare aluminium
may be exposed using All Surface Acrylic Primer.
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Can
I paint vinyl cladding?
Painting your old vinyl siding makes good sense both economically and
aesthetically. Not only can you make it look like new; you can change
the colour and give it a whole new look. Surface preparation and the use
of a top quality acrylic paint are the keys to painting vinyl cladding.
The first step is to remove any chalking and dirt by cleaning with a pressure
washer or by hand scrubbing with warm soapy water and thoroughly rinsing.
REMEMBER: never try to remove stubborn stains on vinyl cladding with a
wire brush, sandpaper or a power sander. These can permanently damage
your cladding. After the surface has dried, paint with two coats of Duration.
NOTE: Never paint vinyl cladding with a colour darker than the original
colour of the vinyl cladding. Dark colours absorb the sun's heat which
can cause the cladding to warp.
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Can
water damage to my stucco/vermiculite ceiling be repaired so that I won't
notice it?
A common problem with these coatings is that they can be water-soluble.
Test a fast drying stain blocking primer, like stop tar primer, or if
you have the time between coats a slow drying enamel primer works well.
Once the stain problem is overcome than paint the entire ceiling with
a premium acrylic paint like Easy-living flat or lo-sheen
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I
want to remove my stucco/ vermiculite from my ceilings, and then paint
them -- how do I do this?
The stucco/vermiculite material can be removed by scraping with a 6-inch
stiff broad knife or with a wallpaper shaver. Scrape the ceiling down
to a smooth surface. You will probably gouge the surface. To resurface
the gouge apply a thin coat of joint compound over the entire area. Let
the joint compound dry then sand smooth. After sanding remove any dust
residue with a damp rag and allow to dry. The surface is now ready to
be sealed with a coat of Acrylic Wall board sealer and then apply your
desired finish coat of paint. Please note that this is a very time consuming
task.
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My
deck keeps peeling year after year -- what do I need to do to get something
that lasts?
First we need to determine the reason for peeling. I suggest you call
your local Sydney Painting Professional and have him perform a site inspection.
The coatings that are on the surface should be removed. One probable cause
of the peeling is the edge of the board facing the ground is not sealed
allowing moisture to be drawn into it. The sun than hits the deck drawing
the moisture through the board and the result is peeling paint or stain.
Before coating the deck wash it. It is important that the surface is free
of any wax or grease before sanding the surface, if not, the contaminates
may be forced into the surface and cause future problems. Next sand the
deck removing as much of the old coatings as possible. Remove the sanding
dust and you are now ready to finish. The deck is now ready to be sealed
and finished as per your choice of finish.
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How
long do I need to leave my pressure treated exterior wood before I can
stain it?
Pressure treated wood contains a lot of moisture do to the chemicals being
forced into the wood. The wood needs to be dry before staining. You can
determine the porosity of the wood by dropping a few drops of water on
it. If the water beads up wait, if it is absorbed into the wood it is
ready to take stain. Typically, the amount of time you need to wait after
the wood is installed is 2 to 4 weeks. If the water does bead wait a week
and test again.
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My
pressure treated wood fence/deck has weathered to a darkish grey colour
--what can I do to freshen it up?
This grey colour is the natural weathering process when bare wood is exposed
to ultra violet rays. In order to freshen it up, clean the surface with
an appropriate decking cleaner following the manufacturers instructions.
This will restore the wood to its natural beauty. To keep the fence/deck
looking good seal it and finish it with an appropriate water based wood
finish.
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My
cedar wood fence/deck has weathered to a darkish grey colour -- what can
I do to freshen it up?
This grey colour is the natural weathering process when bare wood is exposed
to ultraviolet rays. In order to freshen it up, clean the surface with
an appropriate decking cleaner following the manufacturers instructions.
This will restore the wood to its natural beauty. To keep the fence/deck
looking good seal it and finish it with an appropriate water based wood
finish.
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When
do I know that I have to repaint?
By looking at your house to determine if there are any areas where the
paint is either chipping, peeling, cracking or otherwise just aging from
weather. Some signs of natural deterioration is the thinning of the paint,
this is caused by natures weathering. Colour change is also a common reason.
This may be caused by a change in your surroundings, say a new roof..
It is important that your house maintains a good coat of paint on the
surface to protect your investment. Do not fall into the trap of waiting
until clear and visible signs of damage are present before deciding to
act. This may be to late. All properties should be inspected on an on
going basis and an appropriate maintenance program should be adhered to.
Ask your local Sydney Painting Professional
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What
colours are hot now?
Colours are trendy and are always changing. We VERY strongly recommend
the use of an appropriately trained colour consultant. Colour is an exact
science and for the sake of a small price we can all avoid the disaster
that occurs when we try and choose our own colours, and get it wrong.
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I
am getting water through my basement wall, I heard about a paint that
can be used to stop this leaking -- is there such a thing?
Yes these coatings are applied to the interior side of walls and wil prevent
the penetration of water from the other side. For these products to perform,
the surface has to be clean of all surface contaminates including paint,
efflorescence (a white salt deposit) and loose masonry. The efflorescence
can be removed with a solution of 4 parts water to 1 part bleach using
a good scrubbing brush, be careful to wear proper protective clothing
and eyewear. And have plenty of ventilation. Next rinse the surface with
clear water. Allow the surface to dry. Repair any loose masonry and allow
to dry according to manufacturers directions. Seal with a block filler
or appropriate acrylic sealer. Please note that as a result of this action
the previous water traffic will be forced else where. Sometimes this may
mean that the water pressure may build up and climb up the wall or travel
sideways. It is therefore important to also tread the cause of the water
problem as well
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I
just built a new house and want to keep the dust down in the garage --
what can I put down on the floor?
New concrete that has been poured normally has a curing compound applied
to it that must be removed. This can be done by using an acid Etch following
the mixing instructions. Rinse and allow to dry. The newly prepare surface
can then be sealed with standard paving style of paint or one of the many
harder wearing products around. When a clear finish is required the above
system can be followed and finishing can be done so with one of the many
silicon or water based enamel products on the market.
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I
want to seal my patio bricks -- what can I use?
To seal patio bricks they must be porous, clean and in sound condition.
If you are looking for a clear sealer than there are many suitable products
available that very in finish from dead flat to full gloss.
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